Mercedes Benz Cold Start Resource

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Mercedes Benz Cold engine problem??? I have a 1988 300E Mercendes Benz and i've never really had a problem with it until today that it just didnt want to start, its out cold.. there is no cranking but the sound it mnkes is like when your about to turn on your car but it fails and you can try and try all day long and it just wont turn on i know its old but its better than my 03 camry any hints on what could be wrong, or if it is a cold engine... i mean it wasnt lower than 60 degrees lsat night becasue i live in long beach, CA.... so any hints thank you!!! ok it t acts like the starter has trouble turning the motor on... and thats all i see i mean nothing out of the ordinary i've checked everything and its fine... HELP!!

ranjy g replied: "I think you might have a battery problem, maybe your battery is getting weak and does not have enought voltage to crank the engine."

92 mercedes benz 500sl - runs great cold, but not when warmed up? when the car is cold it takes off like a rocket. its pretty smooth and roars down the street. when its warmed up its all jerky/bucking/spitting and sputtering. -- from a dead stop, once its up to cruising speed its fine. im thinking its got nothing to do with the second gear start.

Michael S replied: "Thats really odd, I've never heard anything of the sort. A warmed up car should run better then a cold car."

Duli replied: "Maybe your cars fans stuffed up. This could be the cause of the engine over heating and not running."

wayne replied: "That model is crucial with fuel filters and i think still has one at or near the gas tank the 450 did so i think that one will, also check the exhaust system for rusty bloked catillyc convertor."

Doc. justasinner111 replied: "Also has fuel tank screen."

General T replied: "I had an 89 300SE that exhibited some similar problems and despite a very good mechanic's investigation, we never did find the source of the problem. It'd run strong cold and anemic when warmed up. We did suspect the injection pump had some corrosion in two or three chambers but I never replaced it due the fact that it was heart-stoppingly expensive and not a guaranteed cure. I instead sold the car but wish I hadn't. It was such a nice car. I drove other 300SEs that seemed to exhibit the same problem although the Mercedes dealership thought I was imagining the problem. So, I haven't a solution for you other than the fuel delivery system was a key suspect."

Joe replied: "yea most mercedes are like that when cold but as far as getting warmed up and starts sputtering that unusual really dont kno."

asteroid camper replied: "Could be bad catalytic coverters, a bad engine control sensor, or faulty fuel injection control module. The throttle position sensor is built into the "gas actuator" and is crazy expensive to replace, but all of those issues are relatively easy to diagnose. At the dealership I work for we found that a small valve on the air flow meter was the problem on an older V8 with those symptoms. Small and inexpensive,,,,,most techs have a tendency to focus on the larger issues. The valve I'm thinking of looks like a tire tread depth gauge, and the electronic catalog doesn't always show it as a separate part - somtimes you have to go to a different model to get the part number! Take it to a Mercedes dealer to get it diagnosed."

benztech79 replied: "I would look into your ignition system, such as distributor cap and rotor. Ignition coil, spark plugs and wires."

who replied: "Vacuum gages work very good once we find out how to use them correctly.The gage will tell you anything from the valves performance to vacuum leaks and proper timing."

Ken E replied: "Go with asteroid camper. This sort of thing affects the W126 series as well. One thing, make sure any electrical connections around the top of the air inlet are clean and sound. This has fixed similar problems on other cars. Give things a real clean up with carburettor cleaner before you start spending money. Another suggestion I have read is to adjust the spark plug gaps about 5 thou wider! Look on the net for forums about 500SLs or MB cars running the same engines. There are people on these who really know their stuff and can tell you how to do some jobs. Often others have had the same problems and the fix is on the forum archives, sometimes with pictures. Just put the model number into a search engine, like "R107" or "W126" with "Mercedes". You'd be right about the second gear start, nothing to do with it."

mercedes benz? 1985 380sl 326 ci auto cold start 900 rpm few min goes up 1600 rpm drive car 20 min then rpm drops back to 500 rpm whats going on?

randy c replied: "coolant temperature sensor is probably bad telling the ecm the engine is hot when it is actually cold therefor leaning the fuel mixture to much and causing the high idle"

john m replied: "normal.. You are exaggerating the numbers.(specially the elapsed time)"

Phillip S replied: "Idle control valve may be dirty or defective. 900 RPM is good for a cold start idle speed, but 1600 RPM is telling you an open temperature sensor is reading too cold for the ecm warm up temperature. Thus more fuel is added, and the engine runs at a very fast idle, until the engine warms up to at least 160 degrees F. where the normal (500 RPM = warm engine) idle speed is calculated."

87 mercedes benz with starting problems? i have a 87 benz when i first crank it in the morning or evening it takes a real long time to start but after it starts it cranks fine until the motor gets cold it is a 190E with a 2.3 motor can anyone help

Please punctuate properly folks. replied: "If you haven't serviced the car lately, then it is time to do so. As well as new oil and filter, and air filter, new spark-plugs, HT leads, distributor cap and rotor-arm are all essential, for easy-starting, reliability, good performance and fuel-efficiency. Also try removing the leads from the battery to the starter-motor, and brighten them up with abrasive paper to remove corrosion. Smear some Vaseline on them, to keep it at bay. Something so often forgotten, but vital, is the fuel-filter. This lives under the car, protected by a bolted-up panel. They are very cheap on eBay, and changing a blocked one is essential for keeping the injectors protected from clogging-up with varnish-like deposits. Check the rubber fuel hoses too, from the fuel-tank to the pump and filter, as these can pick up almost invisible pin-holes, which allow air in - once some air enters the hose, it causes a degree of cavitation in the fuel-pump, so the optimum fuel line pressure is not reached, and starting and running become hit-and-miss."

mohd a replied: "change spark plugs if needed-remove air filter assembly to change the -small fuel filter -fixed in the manifold at-pressure line -,use allen key 4mm to regulate the rpm from the injectors -distributer. there is asmall bolt inside,turn it alittle to the right.this will help,"

Mikaela P replied: "Okay i have the same problem with my car, a Mercedes Benz 190e 2.3. Its loosing fuel pressure in your fuel line causing hard starting problem. Replace your FUEL ACCUMULATOR, trust me!, and your problem is solved. After i replaced it i have no problem starting at once Hope this helps!"

Mercedes Benz 300e Loud Whistling Sound When Cold? I've heard everything except the actual cause. When I start my car when it's cool outside, the car makes a lous screeching noise when I accelerate. I usually let it run to warm up for a while. When I do accelerate and the noise starts it's very loud and seems to be around the radiator. It usually slowly dissappears as the thermostat raises to warmer temps. It's a 1989, and most of the time I'm told by mechanics "hey man, it's old it's going to make noise." No kidding. What is the actual reason for this noise and any quick fix-it suggestions? thanks! those are the best answers i have gotten so thanks fellas!

eener replied: "Sounds like a belt. Temperatures cause things to expand and contract. Screeching is caused by belts slipping or rubbing on something. I have a 1987 Mercedes 300e and it doesn't make a noise.. and I've had cars that were more than 20 years old that were well maintained and smooth. The mechanic who told you that is a fool. Either have the offending belt adjusted or replaced. If you don't have it repaired, the belt could break, or it could wear other parts causing more damage. I have also seen improperly fitted belts rub on nearby bolts causing them to wriggle loose and fall out... make sure you have the problem attended to."

tan e replied: "there are two reasons why with the screeching noise one is the tension of the fan belt is not well adjusted,it cannot be too tight or too loose,the sound is cause by loose fan belt,the right method is to adjust at the tension bearing and at the longest side,when you press down,there should be a half an inch allowance,do not tighten it too tight because it will stress the fan belt,the second reason is the tension bearing needs replacment,bearing is worn and without lubricant,create noise when cold,good luck with your driving"

shovelkicker replied: "Our cars have self-tensioning belts. Once a new belt is installed the tension is set. Either the belt has become so stretched that the tensioner can no longer keep it tight enough. Or your tensioner is getting bad. While looking at the front of the engine, just to the right of the block and left of the powersteering fluid can, look down and your should see a small triangle resting on a slit. the front point of the triangle should ride just above a line that is thin to one end and thick on the other. The thick side is proper tension. If the pointer is off more towards the middle or the thin side then the belt needs to be replaced. Also ask around for another mechanic who specializes in Mercedes Benzs. If my favorite MB tech told me that was normal I would have his head on a platter. IF it doesn't have a star, it's not a real car"

Mercedes Benz 1988 560 SEL Fuel Pumps? I just want to know, whats the pressure that the fuel pump suppose to put in the injectors. Today i disconected the cold start valve line and i stopped the fuel pressure with my finger. Does it take that low of fuel pressure ? or my fuel pump is bad ? this car has dual fuel pumps.

burgman replied: "Only book I can find it in says the pump should be pushing 90 PSI."

i have an a/c problem in my 1997 - c280 mercedes benz. the a/c is not getting cold.? my a/c is not getting cold. i took it to a nearby gas station to get it checked and filled with freon. we started filling and hear a hissing sound. he says i have a hole in the compressor or condensor ( i can't remember which one he mentioned now). do u know which could have the hole or what is causes the hissing sound? or any suggestions on which i need to replace to get my a/c working again? thanks!

kennyrich replied: "condenser"

iblooking4it replied: "It could be leaking from either one but a condenser makes more sense if he said there is a hole. If you are wanting to know to save money and do the repair yourself then I suggest you get a do it yourself manual that could help you in this area. I heard you can get them from Ebay for a couple of bucks now a days I think. Good luck......"

I have 1990 Mercedes Benz 300 SE. The car is in great condition.? The R-12 has been ice cold until recently. It's starting to blow hot air after about ten minutes of driving. When I turn off the air conditioner for about twenty minutes, it starts blowing cold air again. Is it just low on freon or is it electrical? Because the cost of R-12 is so expensive, what are your thoughts on changing over to R-134a? Thank you for your assistance.

C Anderson replied: "If you can reliably repeat this, it would appear that you've got adequate freon in the system -- assuming it really does blow really cold air and not just tepid air now. As for diagnosis after the 10 minutes are up -- It's not tough to get a shop to stick a pressure gauge on to assure your freon level is up to snuff. I'm not sure I'd start there, but it's clearly an available diagnostic tool for this problem. The Benzmobiles have the old fashioned 'sight glass' in the line (on top of the receiver/dry or the accumulator) that can be used to give a person a clue as to freon levels. It's a small fitting in the line that contains a glass window. Smooth flowing liquid without a discernable number of bubbles indicates a reasonable level of charge. Lots of bubbles will be an indication that you're low. Take a look -- you might get lucky. You'll want to assure that your compressor is actually cycling regularly after that time. If you can't sense it from the driver's seat (engine idle speed difference, sound, whatever), stop the car, raise the hood, and watch to see if the compressor clutch, driven by a belt, engages and disengages on a cyclic basis. In fact, it'd be good to watch this from the start while it's blowing "cold" so you'll recognize the difference should it cease to cycle. If the compressor isn't cycling, there are several possible reasons for this. First, there's a pressure sensor that, given the "cold" you get for a while, should be sensing adequate freon pressure. If the freon is low, or this sensor fails, the system will try to protect the compressor by shutting off the system. Running the compressor low on freon (and the oil they add to it) can ruin the compressor. If this sensor is acting goofy, it could be keeping the compressor clutch from operating - thinking it was protecting the compressor. Another possible reason for the compressor not cycling would be a clutch that ceases to work after it heats up. You'd need a meter to assure that it was getting voltage and just not working as a clutch. You'd see the 12V across the connector, but not the grab of the clutch to drive the shaft of the compressor. If the compressor is cycling (clutch working), then you've probably got an issue with the way your "climate control" system is blending the air. The "cool" that is being generated isn't necessarily being directed into the cabin to cool you down. So you'd want to assure that your "climate control" system is working. It's not likely that this will behave the way you describe above (cease operating properly after 10 minutes of driving), but it's certainly in control of the A/C compressor clutch and ventilation mix, so is included in the list of "usual suspects". I would only consider the cost of conversion to R134 *IF* for some reason you a) find a leak in your system that requires recharge with R12 b) your R12 system has to be purged for or after a repair Providing that you find that you're "freon-tight" now, I wouldn't mess with it until one of those two events should occur. Anything that would cause the need for a major add of R12 would cause me to bite the bullet for the R134 conversion. ."

Problem with injection system Mercedes Benz 190? Hello I have Mercedes-Benz E190 car produced in 1990. Actually I bought this car about 15 days ago. It was fine till now, yesterday I have started my car and I feel that when you are pushing gas its starting to not accept it. The problem is becoming more seriously when the engine is cold. The second problem which I think that have linkages with first one is that when you are running it its like there are no Horse Power, it is going very low! Today I have changed petrol filter but it is again the same problem. Yeah and the petrol pump pressure has started to work very loudly. Please if you can help me to find out somehow how to fix these car! Thank you in advance!

Robert M replied: "This is genuinely a fine car and easy to work with, if you know a few things. First of all, remove the air cleaner. You should be able to see the fuel metering box now. Clean the base plate with spray gum-out. It is like the bottom of a dished bowl. DO this with engine off, and then with engine on. Then, locate your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. It is a small electrically operated device attached to the intake manifold with one or two 10mm head screws. Wash this out thoroughly with the gum-out spray. Or use Amzoil intake cleaner with it. When you have reattached the IAC valve, start the engine. Race a few times. Now the REAL fun begins!!!! Using a 13mm box end wrench, loosen each fuel injector line, one-at-a-time, at the metering box. Race the engine a little as you do so. This will allow old trapped, rusty fuel to escape from the metering plates. As you re-tighten each line, you should see the engine continue to run a little bit stronger. THe fuel metering box should ALWAYS be showroom clean. Use the gum-out as freely as possible. Also, power wash your entire engine. Make sure that the electrical connections on the metering box are TOTALLY clean!! Spray them down with CRC electric spray. One is called the fuel differential, and the other is like a throttle position switch. You should have improved power, now. On the top of the engine, connected to the IAC valve indirectly, is the PCV valve. Clean this with Gum-out and Amzoil spray, if you can get it. This will help prevent sludge build-up. Locate an intake manifold vacuum port, and inject the gum-out into it with the engine running at various speeds. This will clean out the carbon that has built up inside the intake manifold, where you cannot see. Smoke may billow out the tailpipe for a second or two. This is GOOD!! WHen you are satisfied that everything is as clean as you can get it, replace the spark plugs with either Bosch FUsion or Nippondenso Twin Tip plugs. You will gain 20% power over the standard Bosch copper plugs you have removed. E-mail me back with your results. I LOVE positive feedback!"